Monday, May 18, 2009

Over the river and through the woods (updated)

Friday morning I was on a cable car at 4500ft in the Swiss Alps and by Saturday morning I was on a sailboat off the coast of Scotland. Who can say with a straight face that that isn't completely awesome? No one.

.....and wow, I just hit a wall of tired. To Be Continued, I suppose. Tomorrow I'm up bright and early to rid my bag of liquids and try to smush it into carry-on size, eat breakfast and walk across the car parks (British term) and roundabouts (another British concept!) to the airport terminal to embark on 17 hours (starting with takeoff from Manchester) of air travel joy. Yippee!



*** CONTINUED!

So yes, Friday morning I left the mountain hostel at 8:45 in the morning and climbed into a cable car bound for the Lautenbrunnen valley. The whole area had become inundated with fog and Americans overnight and I was glad that I'd been there while it'd been relatively dry and people free. Some of those Americans were on the cable car and couldn't stop telling me about how they want to move to Portland and do "something creative". I was very proud of myself in not rolling my eyes at them, and explained in a reasonable tone that Portland is kind of full of those types and they're now moving away because there aren't any jobs, creative or otherwise. ("Oregon is full. Please try our nearby locations in Idaho." That's the sign I think we ought to have on the border.)

Once at the cable car station down the mountain, I caught a bus to Lautenbrunnen itself and then a train to Interlaken. Interlaken reminds me a lot of the area near Flathead lake in Montana with gorgeous gorgeous (I can't emphasize this enough) turquoise lakes up against the spectacular mountains. From Interlaken it was a four hour train ride to Mannheim, Germany.

Because I didn't have reservations on any of these trains, if the seats were full, I had to make do without one. This wasn't an issue until I switched trains at Mannheim. The train stopped at the Frankfurt airport and was therefore full of travelers both getting off and getting there. I ended up crammed into the between-cars area along with some Germany soldiers on their way (presumably) to drill. Not one of them looked to be over 15 years old, but they were quiet, polite and friendly in a way that 15-year-olds are not physically capable of being, indicating that they actually were old enough to be in the military.

There was one more train change after that in Cologne, and then came the worst train of them all - a local route to the nowhere ville of Weeze. The train was completely packed with commuters. A group of construction workers with prematurely wrinkled skin and tattoos on their necks and each with a few teeth missing hollered at each other and opened bottles of beer using the seats. The rest of the car ran the gambit from teenagers to well-to-do types on their way home to their posh suburbs. At one point I was standing on one foot, my head stuck right below the armpit of a giant man who was talking with his friend, also smushed against me, about football. I know this because it was "blah blah blah Cottbus. blah blah blah UEFA." etc.

When I finally got to Weeze I had to miss the bus connection to the airport because the only Euros I had at that point was a fifty and I know bus drivers of all nationalities well enough to know that that would not fly. So I wandered throughout this entire suburb in search of an ATM and never found one. Instead, I bought a bunch of chocolate and some shampoo at the "Euro store" (like our dollar stores) and had them break the 50.

A few hours after that and I was in Edinburgh, once again standing in line for a bus. The first one filled up and left, the second one stopped taking anything that wasn't exact change and also left while I went to get said change, and I ended up not getting to the hostel until after midnight. As it turns out, I was only a few minutes behind a huge group of Spaniards who were at the checkout desk with an elaborate request - 6 people wanted to stay 3 nights, 4 people 2 nights and they all wanted to be in the same rooms. Being Spaniards, they are completely unfamiliar with the concepts of a line and personal space and I kept having visions like Jason Statham's character in Mean Machine where he goes on kung-fu rampages and breaks everyone's arms. Finally, I got my room assignment and after climbing four flights of stairs was pleased to discover that there was no one else in my room. The charm quickly wore off though when it became apparent that the English girls next door were going to be obnoxious. It was someone's birthday and instead of celebrating in the pub down the hall which was open until 5, they took turns slamming the door, screaming at each other in the hall, then pounding on the door demanding to be let back in. This continued until it was light out (which at that latitude happens at about 4:30) when it went mysteriously silent. I can only hope they went outside for a smoke and got arrested. Karma has to come through sometimes, right?

Edinburgh looks a bit different that the last time I left there early in the morning. The length of Princess street (the road that runs opposite the gigantic castle and is full of shops and bagpipers, ordinarily) is closed and in pieces due to the construction of a tram line. I'm not sure the road, or the city for that matter, is big enough to warrant a tram, but whatever. Hopefully they'll ban cars from there and it'll be slightly less stressful dodging kilted drunkards in the future.

A short train ride through the fog later I was standing on the edge of George Square in Glasgow. I could hear what sounded like a parade in the distance, but as it didn't seem to be getting any closer I couldn't tell what it was. Apparently, it was a parade, but they were marching in place for ten minutes just to hold up my friends who were on the way to pick me up. Not so long after that, and a trip on a row boat, I was on an honest-to-god sailboat!

I'd never been sailing before, so I was pretty pumped. It's a lot less scary than a highspeed ski boat, since it seems to move in slow motion in comparison. But scenery is way better than what you see when you're clinging onto the seat trying not to fly out onto the water skier behind you. In fact, although there's a little more work involved with making it go in the direction you want it to go (not that I had anything to do with that. I just sat there and tried not to get in the way), it's actually pretty relaxing. The weather, being Scotland, was rainy and then sunny and then windy and then still and then sunnyrainywindy all at once. I didn't take any pictures because I was wearing four layers and my camera was somewhere in layer two. For my sake that was a good thing, since I didn't get cold until the very end, but holy crap was I chilly once it did hit.

So there ya have it. The European tale of how one gets from the Alps to sea level in 24 hours. I suppose I could do that at home. But I haven't and can't imagine how I would do it using nearly entirely public transportation.

2 comments:

Middle Child said...

This blog is your travel journal really... I felt like I was in that train under that hairy armpit...pooey

what do you call "car parks" and Roundabouts" we use the same words as the Poms

Sara said...

heheh, sorry bout the armpits!

We call them "parking lots" and we don't really have roundabouts at all, but on the odd occasion they pop up we call them traffic circles. We also use the term roundabout occasionally, but since the thing is such a rarity itself, the word is a doubly rare.